Exterior Wood Siding & Surface Painting

Wood siding

Peeling siding almost always means bare wood that never got primed — and the chalky, weathered look is siding that wasn’t kept up. The fix is the prep, and the prep is your call.

✓Two levels of prep, your callScrape-and-coat — sound and economical — or scrape, sand the edges smooth, and spackle the divots for a smooth, finished look. You pick the level.

✓The caulk ruleWe caulk the seams, trim, and around windows and doors — but never the overlapping laps. That gap is how water drains out from behind the board; caulk it and you trap water behind the siding.

✓Bare wood gets primedLatex ProBlock on every bare spot before the topcoat goes on.

✓Three package optionsSuperPaint · Duration · Emerald. Good, better, best — you pick the protection level.

✓The high workDormers, gables, chimney chases, second-story siding — the reach-work most painters skip, rush, or overcharge for.

Board & batten

Board and batten isn’t full dimensional lumber, so the scrape-levels don’t carry the same way — here the work is sealing the battens and getting even, crisp coverage.

✓Caulk the battensEvery vertical batten edge sealed.

✓Partial jobs are normalIt’s common to do just the front, or one side, instead of the whole house. We scope it to what you actually need.

✓Three package optionsSuperPaint · Duration · Emerald, sprayed and back-rolled even.

✓Protect what’s not getting paintedWindows, fixtures, and landscaping covered before we start.

✓The high work applies here tooBoard & batten gables and chimney chases included.

Cedar

Cedar is the warm natural accent — shutters, column wraps, porch posts — set against a painted body. The trick is keeping it from bleeding through.

✓Oil ProBlock firstCedar bleeds tannin — the brown stain that ghosts up through a topcoat. Oil ProBlock blocks it. This is where oil earns its place.

✓Paint or stain, your callStaying natural usually means the accent pieces — shutters, posts, wraps — stained to show the grain. See the Stain & Trim tab → for the stain detail.

✓Painted body, natural accentsLike the white board & batten house with cedar shutters and cedar porch posts.

Stain & trim

The natural-wood and detail work that finishes the whole exterior — front doors, porch ceilings, trim, and shutters.

✓Front doorsStained natural with Minwax and a marine varnish clear coat, or painted bold — finished smooth and sealed against the sun so it won’t fade or peel.

✓Porch ceilingsThe Gulf Coast haint-blue tradition or any color, coated even and exterior-rated for the humidity and reflected light up under the roof.

✓TrimFascia, corner boards, window and door trim — caulked, primed, and crisp against the body color.

✓ShuttersVinyl or wood — the right coating for the material, a bold accent color, coated edge-to-edge and rehung.

Soffit & fascia

The wood line up under your roof — fascia boards and soffit in whatever style your house has. Sometimes it’s the whole job: on a brick house where the brick stays bare, the soffit and fascia are all that gets painted.

✓Box cut (rafters out)Open-eave soffit where the rafter tails show — every rafter, lookout, and the underside coated by hand, damaged ends repaired first.

✓Bird box (boxed eave)Enclosed, boxed-in soffit — coated clean and even along the whole run.

✓Wood fasciaPrimed and coated, with any rotted fascia board replaced before paint — paint won’t fix rot.

✓Vinyl soffit? It’s the odd one outVinyl isn’t wood — it needs vinyl-safe colors. See painting vinyl →.

✓Even on the ventsSoffit vents coated clean without clogging the airflow.

Wood repair & carpentry

We don’t hide rot under fresh paint. This is structural, not just boards — paint won’t fix rot, and we won’t pretend it does.

✓Replace the rot firstRotted boards, soft trim, columns out, soffit and fascia patches — handled before a drop of paint goes on.

✓Re-prime the new woodFresh wood primed so it holds the coating.

✓Then it disappearsRepairs blended into the finished coat.