Interior
Shutting down your entire house for a paint job is the part everyone dreads. We run it so it feels like we were never there. It starts with a conversation: you tell us where to start, and we work the house room by room from there.
Want the master first? We finish the master on day one — and it’s yours again that evening, open, with no strong paint smell. From there we move through the same way: the living areas (kitchen, living room, dining room), the extra bedrooms, then the bathrooms.
Depending on what you’re having done — walls, trim, ceilings — we can paint a whole house in about three days, and you keep living in it the entire time. Nothing gets torn apart and left for a week.
Want to see how we keep your furniture and floors safe so you don’t have to move a thing? How we work in your home →
Selling? We do one-coat refreshes and work hand-in-hand with real estate agents. See how we work with realtors →
A single room is the easiest place to start — and it’s more than four walls. When we paint a room we look at everything in it: the walls, the ceiling, the trim, the doors, the closet. You tell us how far to take it.
Two coats is our standard, and our paint dries fast enough to recoat in about four hours — so a single room usually gets both coats in one visit without cutting a corner. The closet counts too; it’s the spot most painters skip and the first place you notice was skipped. Same with the inside of the door and the trim around it.
Minor prep comes included: we fill the nail holes, caulk the gaps where the trim meets the wall, and sand the rough spots before we coat. If there’s real damage under the surface — a soft spot, a crack that keeps coming back, a hole — that’s patchwork, and we handle that in the same visit. See how we handle patches →
Thinking about an accent wall in here, or a second color? That’s exactly where we shine, and you can see it on your actual room before we start. Color →
Whatever you’re picturing, we can put it on the wall. One accent wall. Two colors in a single room with a crisp line where they meet. A whole house — nine rooms in nine different colors. Going from a deep wall to bright white, or light to something dark and dramatic — that’s the kind of job that takes an extra coat to do right, and we’ll tell you that up front instead of after.
Straight lines are our specialty. The line where two colors meet — or where a dark wall stops and white trim begins — is the hardest thing to get right in this trade, and it’s the first thing people notice in ours. We just wrapped a bedroom in a near-black green pulled across the walls and the trim, with the ceiling left bright white. On a job like that the lines have to be invisible, because the eye has nothing to break against — and they are. See it →
Best part: you don’t have to guess, and you don’t have to wait. See your colors on your own home first with Paint Guru — any color, as many colors as you want, on a photo of your actual room with your real furniture in it, before we ever open a can. Open Paint Guru →
“Trim” is one word for a whole list of things: doors, crown, door frames, window frames, windows, sills, baseboards, shiplap, wainscoting, chair rail — and custom versions of all of it. Whatever yours is, and whether it’s latex, oil, or stain, we’ve got deep experience with all three. At the end of the day it comes down to prep: we caulk the cracks, fill the nail holes, cut out the old busted-out caulk, and sand before every coat.
Here’s the one that bites people. We don’t just paint over oil-based trim. Put latex over oil and it’ll peel off with the smallest bump — and we fix that a lot. So we always check first. It’s rare on new homes but older homes are notorious for it, so have whoever’s painting check either way. The easy path is to just use oil again; the better path is to prime over it and topcoat with latex so you skip the smell. Either way, the check comes first — we don’t find out the hard way on your trim.
Old wood paneling? We handle that too, three ways:
A water stain looks worse than it usually is. Depending on the damage, getting rid of that yellow ghost might be a lot less of a headache than you’d think.
If it’s mostly the stain bugging you — that yellow ring on the ceiling, usually in the popcorn — we spray a quick coat of oil-based ProBlock right over it and seal it so it can’t bleed back through. Fast and cheap, around $200. You can even do it yourself: Sherwin-Williams sells it. Just walk in and ask for the spray can of oil ProBlock. If the damage runs deeper than the surface — soft to the touch, sagging, more than a stain — that’s patchwork, and here’s how we handle it. Patches →
On popcorn ceilings: we paint them, but they have to be sprayed, never rolled. A roller drags across the texture and pulls it right off the ceiling, so spraying is the only way to coat popcorn without wrecking it. To spray it, we hang plastic all the way down the walls and cover the floor — the whole room gets sealed off so overspray never touches a thing. And since the walls are already masked top to bottom for that, that’s the moment to paint them too. The protection’s already built, the room’s already set up — doing the walls now costs you a fraction of what it costs to bring us back to mask the entire room a second time later.
Worried about how long one patch takes, or how many you’ve got? We know how the plumbers and electricians leave things. One patch — we’re in and out in as little as two hours. A handful of them — usually a day.
We move that fast because we use a five-minute quick-set mud. That one process covers replacing the sheetrock, taping, bedding, and the finish coat — then texture-matching, priming, and two coats of paint, all in the same visit. No coming back three times.
Straight talk on matching. For a result we can guarantee, we recommend taking the repair corner-to-corner on a wall, or doing the whole ceiling. If you’ve still got your leftover paint, we’ll spot it in; if not, we’ll match it. Sometimes a spot touch-up disappears completely. Sometimes you can still catch where it was touched up in the right light — that’s just the honest truth of it, and it’s exactly why full coverage corner-to-corner is the only way we can promise you’ll never see it.
Anything under the surface of the sheetrock is sheetrock work, and it’s all the same to us — hole, crack, soft spot, water damage. Sheetrock repair →
Having someone in your home is stressful — we get it, and we take every step to make it feel effortless. Every house is different and we adapt to yours: keeping an eye out for the fur babies, working around the schedule you need, and planning the job start to finish so you know exactly which areas we’re in each day.
We size each day’s work by what we can actually finish that day — so when evening comes it’s just a painted room, not your whole house torn apart and scattered. Your home doesn’t become a storage unit while we work.
We protect everything in it like it’s our own. We’ll always suggest you move the small, irreplaceable things yourself — but past that, you don’t lift a finger. We pull everything to the middle of the room, double-cover it in plastic, and drop cloths over your floors. If we’re painting the ceiling, we cut the fan off before anything else moves. Then at the end of the day it all goes back where it belongs.
Prep is always included, up to patchwork. See what that covers →
And it won’t stink up the house. The paint we use doesn’t carry a strong smell, so it won’t fume you out of your own home. If someone’s sick, elderly, or just sensitive, we’ve got Zero-VOC paint with no smell at all — the same kind used in hospitals, where they paint right around the patients.
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