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EXTERIOR · WOOD STAINING

Every Wood Has
Its Own Chemistry.

Cedar bleeds tannins. Mahogany shows every stroke. Teak rejects standard stain. We know what works on each wood, and we know the one technique that separates streaky jobs from finished ones.

Doors, shutters, siding, trim, beams — every exterior wood surface, prepped and finished to last 5+ years on the Gulf Coast.

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★★★★★ 4.7 on Google · 2-Year Warranty · Licensed & Insured
PREMIUM HARDWOOD
Mahogany
Minwax oil + 3 coats marine varnish. Section cut-in mandatory — mahogany shows every overlap.
THE ONE TECHNIQUE THAT MATTERS

Stain isn't paint.
Every pass darkens.

Most people think staining a door is like painting a door — you dip, you brush, you move on. It's not. Stain is cumulative. Each time a brush or rag touches a spot, that spot gets darker. The difference between a door that looks like a magazine photo and a door with streaky dark patches comes down to one rule: work it like cutting in. Sections. Wet edge. One pass. Move on.

✗ THE WRONG WAY

Slinging stain. Brushing back and forth, doubling over the same areas, "just making sure it's even." Every overlap is a darker band. You end up with tiger stripes.

✓ THE RIGHT WAY

Section cut-in. Divide the door into logical sections (rails, stiles, panels). Stain each section in one pass, maintaining a wet edge. Never double back. Consistent color, zero streaks.

WOODS WE STAIN

Nine Woods. Different Rules for Each.

A painter who uses the same stain system on every wood is going to fail you on at least half of them. Here's what each wood actually needs.

Cedar

Siding · Shake · Shingle

Gulf Coast's most common wood. Bleeds tannins through water-based primers. Requires oil-based stain that penetrates the pores.

Spec: Minwax oil + marine varnish (2 coats)

Mahogany

Doors · Trim · Accents

High-end hardwood that shows every overlap. Section cut-in is mandatory. The wood you see on luxury front doors.

Spec: Minwax oil + 3 coats marine varnish

Pine

Beams · Ceilings · Columns

Soft, porous, absorbs unevenly without a pre-stain conditioner. Skip the conditioner and you get blotchy results every time.

Spec: Pre-stain + Minwax oil + marine varnish

Oak

Doors · Trim · Posts

Tight grain, deep pores, takes stain beautifully if prep is right. Forgiving wood but still rewards technique.

Spec: Minwax oil + 2 coats marine varnish

Cypress

Siding · Beams · Porch

Natural rot resistance, a Gulf Coast favorite. Takes stain well but the natural oils mean adhesion matters on the sealer coat.

Spec: Minwax oil + marine varnish (2 coats)

Walnut

Doors · Trim · Accents

Dark, rich, already beautiful — usually just needs a clear sealer to bring out depth rather than color change.

Spec: Clear penetrating oil + marine varnish

Redwood

Siding · Trim · Columns

Rich red tone, naturally rot-resistant. Tannin bleeding is aggressive — we seal before staining to lock it down.

Spec: Tannin blocker + Minwax oil + marine varnish

Teak

Doors · Trim · Outdoor

Dense, oily tropical hardwood. Rejects standard Minwax stains because of the natural oils. Needs a dedicated teak oil system.

Spec: Teak oil + marine spar varnish

Ipe

Premium Doors · Accents

Brazilian hardwood, dense as steel, almost oily. Like teak, rejects standard stains. Requires an ipe-specific penetrating oil.

Spec: Ipe oil + marine spar varnish
STAINS

The Stain Layer

Penetrating, oil-based, wood-specific. What goes on first determines everything that comes after.

STANDARD

Minwax Penetrating Oil

The workhorse. Oil-based, deep-penetrating, seals cedar tannins and soaks into pores instead of sitting on the surface. We apply with a roller on one coat to push it into the grain — spray alone misses 30% of porous wood.

Best for: Cedar, pine, oak, cypress, redwood, mahogany. The default for 90% of stain jobs.
PREMIUM

Sikkens Translucent

European-made premium stain with superior UV protection built into the stain layer itself. Costs more, lasts 2x longer in Gulf Coast sun. We spec this on high-end hardwood doors and premium jobs where longevity matters.

Best for: Luxury front doors, showcase trim, any job where you want 7+ years of finish life.
TROPICAL

Teak & Ipe Oil

Dedicated penetrating oil engineered for dense, oily tropical hardwoods. Standard Minwax won't bond to teak or ipe — the wood's natural oils reject it. Teak oil is formulated to work with those oils instead of against them.

Best for: Teak, ipe, and exotic hardwoods. Mandatory spec — no substitutes work.
SEALERS & VARNISHES

The Topcoat is What Makes It Last

UV is what kills every stain job on the Gulf Coast. The stain gives you color. The sealer is what keeps that color from fading in 18 months.

STANDARD SEALER

Marine Varnish · 2 Coats

Same product used on boat decks. Marine-grade UV protection engineered for constant sun exposure at sea. Two coats is our minimum — one coat fades in two years, two coats holds for five. This is where we separate from painters who skip the sealer to save time.

When we use it: Every exterior stain job gets at least 2 coats. Non-negotiable.
PREMIUM SYSTEM

Marine Spar Varnish · 3 Coats

Three coats of spar varnish — the marine industry's gold standard for wood protection. Slightly flexible to handle wood expansion and contraction, UV inhibitors baked in. This is what goes on a $10,000 front door to keep it looking new for a decade.

When we use it: Mahogany doors, teak, ipe, premium hardwood accents, Marine-Grade package.
PRE-STAIN

Wood Conditioner

Goes on before the stain, not after. Evens out absorption on soft or porous woods like pine. Without it, pine takes stain blotchy — dark in some spots, pale in others. Conditioner lets the stain soak in uniformly.

When we use it: Pine, softwood trim, any porous wood that would stain unevenly otherwise.
TANNIN BLOCKER

Sealer Primer for Bleed-Through

Redwood, cedar, and some mahogany release tannins that bleed through topcoats and yellow your finish. A tannin-blocking sealer locks those compounds into the wood before the stain and varnish go on. Skip it and you get brown staining through your clear coat.

When we use it: Redwood always. Cedar on previously-painted surfaces. Some tropical hardwoods.
SHEENS

Four Sheens. Four Uses.

Sheen isn't just a style choice — it affects durability, cleanability, and how much the wood grain shows through. Here's where each one belongs.

10 – 25%
Satin

Soft, understated glow. Doesn't scream. The most common choice for exterior wood because it doesn't look plastic.

Best for: Siding, shutters, beams, trim, any large surface.
35 – 45%
Semi-Gloss

Noticeable shine that shows off the grain without being flashy. Easier to wipe clean than satin.

Best for: Front doors, shutters on contemporary homes, handrails.
70 – 85%
Gloss

Deep, wet look. Dramatic shine that reflects light. Shows every surface imperfection so prep has to be perfect.

Best for: Premium mahogany doors, showcase pieces, statement trim.
90%+
High-Gloss

Piano-finish mirror gloss. Maximum shine, maximum drama, maximum prep required. Any flaw in the wood shows.

Best for: Luxury doors, yacht-style finishes, designer spec work.
OUR PROCESS

What Your Wood Staining Job Looks Like

Not what we do — what you experience. The timeline varies by scope, but every job hits these six phases.

01
Wood Assessment & Spec
Before we start

Text us photos. We identify the wood species, existing finish, and what it'll take to bring it back. Firm price in 10 minutes with the exact stain, sealer, and sheen spec'd for your wood.

02
Prep & Clean
Day 1

Pressure wash, hand-clean tight spots, tape off hardware and glass. Wood has to be bone dry before staining — moisture under stain causes every peeling failure.

03
Sand, Strip, or Condition
Day 1–2

Depends on the wood and direction. Going darker = palm sand. Going lighter = full strip. Pine and softwoods = pre-stain conditioner. Redwood/cedar = tannin blocker if repaint.

04
Stain — Section Cut-In Technique
Day 2 — Main event

Section by section, wet edge maintained, no doubling back. Two coats total with proper dry time. This is the craft part — the technique that separates a finished job from a streaky one.

05
Marine Varnish Seal
Day 2–3

Two coats standard, three on premium hardwood. This is the UV armor. Without it, your stain fades in two years. With it, you get five-plus.

06
Walkthrough & Cure
Day 3 — 1 hour

Walk every board and every surface together. Balance due only after you're happy. 72-hour full cure — don't lean furniture or touch repeatedly until fully cured.

WOOD STAINING PACKAGES

Three Options. Pick Your Level.

Price depends on scope and wood type. These ranges are for a typical front-door-and-shutter job on a standard home.

GOOD
Standard Stain
From $1,500
2-year finish · 1–2 days
  • ✓Prep + clean + tape
  • ✓Minwax penetrating stain
  • ✓2 coats marine varnish
  • ✓Section cut-in technique
  • ✓Walkthrough + warranty
BETTER
Premium Stain System
From $2,800
5-year finish · 2–3 days
  • ✓Everything in Good, plus:
  • ✓Wood-specific prep (conditioner / tannin blocker as needed)
  • ✓3 coats marine varnish
  • ✓Sheen selection (satin → high-gloss)
  • ✓Shutters removed & stained flat
BEST
Marine-Grade Hardwood
From $4,500
7+ year finish · 3–4 days
  • ✓Everything in Better, plus:
  • ✓Sikkens premium stain (or teak/ipe oil)
  • ✓Marine spar varnish (3 coats)
  • ✓Gloss or high-gloss finish available
  • ✓Year-1 maintenance touch-up included
PRO TIPS

The Right Way vs. The Cheap Way

Every failed stain job comes down to one of these shortcuts. Here's what to do — and what to avoid.

✓ DO

What makes wood stain last 5+ years
✓

Work in sections, maintain a wet edge

Section cut-in technique. One pass per section. Never double back over drying stain.

✓

Match the stain to the wood

Minwax for most woods. Teak oil for teak and ipe. Sikkens for premium hardwood doors.

✓

Always seal with marine varnish

Two coats minimum. UV is what kills stain jobs — the sealer is your only defense.

✓

Condition porous woods before staining

Pine and other softwoods need pre-stain conditioner or you get blotchy results.

✓

Take shutters down and stain them flat

Stained in-place shutters drip and streak every time. Off the house, flat on horses, even finish.

✗ DON'T

Why cheap stain jobs fail within a year
✗

Don't sling stain back and forth

Every overlap darkens. You'll end up with tiger stripes. Section cut-in or bust.

✗

Don't use Minwax on teak or ipe

The natural oils in these tropical hardwoods reject standard stain. Needs dedicated teak/ipe oil.

✗

Don't skip the sealer

Stain without marine varnish fades in two years. The sealer is 80% of why the job lasts.

✗

Don't stain wet wood

Moisture trapped under stain causes every bubbling, peeling failure we've ever seen.

✗

Don't paint over peeling varnish

Old varnish has to come off. New stain over failing topcoat peels faster than the old one did.

Real Reviews · Real Customers

What Our Customers Say

4.7 stars on Google — 37 verified reviews across Baldwin & Mobile County.

Robert Robinson

I highly recommend Alex and Megan of Paint Doctors, LLC for your painting project. They are very responsive and personable. They were fully committed to the job and did their job quite well. I am having my 90 yr old house resided, and I asked Paint Doctors to paint the overhanging eves/soffit, paint the window trims, and the front porch before the siding installation. They spray-washed all surfaces to remove decades of grime and mold, they caulked all seams, and put on 2 coats of prime paint (Sherwin Williams). I am very pleased with the final product. I will reach out to the Paint Doctors when I need another major paint project done.

Loren Barraza

They were absolutely fantastic and great communicators. They painted the exterior of our house and I could not be happier with the way it turned out! They came out quickly for an initial inspection, they were fast with their quote turnaround, and they have fair pricing. I would 100% use them again for a paint project.

Jeannie Bernardo

Very meticulous. Have a big outside of my house with doormers. That was no problem for them. My house looks great and i am very pleased. I will use them again by all means.

Robert Robinson

I highly recommend Alex and Megan of Paint Doctors, LLC for your painting project. They are very responsive and personable. They were fully committed to the job and did their job quite well. I am having my 90 yr old house resided, and I asked Paint Doctors to paint the overhanging eves/soffit, paint the window trims, and the front porch before the siding installation. They spray-washed all surfaces to remove decades of grime and mold, they caulked all seams, and put on 2 coats of prime paint (Sherwin Williams). I am very pleased with the final product. I will reach out to the Paint Doctors when I need another major paint project done.

Loren Barraza

They were absolutely fantastic and great communicators. They painted the exterior of our house and I could not be happier with the way it turned out! They came out quickly for an initial inspection, they were fast with their quote turnaround, and they have fair pricing. I would 100% use them again for a paint project.

Jeannie Bernardo

Very meticulous. Have a big outside of my house with doormers. That was no problem for them. My house looks great and i am very pleased. I will use them again by all means.

Susan Bender

We really needed the exterior of our house painted. It had been over 15 years and the paint was fading. Dependable Painting came over and gave us an estimate that beat all the others. They did an amazing job; from prepping the house to making sure everything was finished to our satisfaction. We received so many compliments on the house. I would definitely recommend them.

Richard Tellman

Dependable painting did an excellent job painting our house and staining our front door. Punctual, dependable, hard working, and attention to detail was outstanding. I highly recommend them and will hire them again for my painting needs.

Delaine Seamon

Very pleased with their work. They also power washed my house. They did a great job and I will use them again. Very professional and a pleasure to work with.

Susan Bender

We really needed the exterior of our house painted. It had been over 15 years and the paint was fading. Dependable Painting came over and gave us an estimate that beat all the others. They did an amazing job; from prepping the house to making sure everything was finished to our satisfaction. We received so many compliments on the house. I would definitely recommend them.

Richard Tellman

Dependable painting did an excellent job painting our house and staining our front door. Punctual, dependable, hard working, and attention to detail was outstanding. I highly recommend them and will hire them again for my painting needs.

Delaine Seamon

Very pleased with their work. They also power washed my house. They did a great job and I will use them again. Very professional and a pleasure to work with.

Read All Reviews on Google
QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

Everything You Want to Know

Real questions from real wood staining projects across Baldwin and Mobile County.

WOOD STAINING +

Why are stain bids so different in price?

Cheap bids skip the sealer and the technique. That's where failure starts.

WOOD STAINING +

How long does exterior stain last on the Gulf Coast?

2 years with 1 sealer coat. 5 years with 2. 7+ with marine spar varnish.

WOOD STAINING +

Can I go lighter on my current dark stain?

Only with a full strip. Stain doesn't lighten over existing stain.

WOOD STAINING +

What stain brand do you use and why?

Minwax for most. Sikkens for premium. Teak oil for tropical hardwoods.

WOOD STAINING +

Why do my shutters always streak?

Because they weren't taken down. Off the house, laid flat, even finish every time.

WOOD STAINING +

What sheen should I pick for my front door?

Semi-gloss for character. Gloss or high-gloss for drama and luxury feel.

WOOD STAINING +

How do I know what wood my door is?

Text us a photo and we'll tell you — plus spec the right stain for it.

WOOD STAINING +

What's different about teak and ipe?

Natural oils reject standard stain. They need a dedicated oil product, not Minwax.

Ready to see what your wood can look like?

Text us a photo of your door, shutters, siding, or trim. We'll identify the wood, spec the right stain system, and give you a firm price — in 10 minutes.

📞 Call for Wood Assessment 💬 Text Us Photos →